(And in similarly teeny does, its also been used in medicine as a sedative), Illamasqua Freak Jean Patou Joy (And dont blame us if youre busted sniffing the fruitbowl!) Are you a honey-lover? The agarwood is a result of a reaction to a fungal attack, which turns this usually pale and light wood into a dark, resinous wood with a distinct fragrance a process that takes hundreds of years. An animalistic secretion from the Castor beaver used to impart a leathery aroma to a fragrance, it is often reproduced synthetically. So how can it work, in a perfume? Chanel Chance Eau Tendre. Tom Ford Black Orchid. Ylang ylang grows in the Phillipines, Java, Runion and the Comoro Islands. Gucci Guilty A herb that grows in the Middle East, North Africa, and the Mediterranean, also known as sweet myrrh. (Although LArtisan Parfumeur built a whole fragrant collection around it), Caron Secret Oud Atelier Cologne Vanille Incense (What you see in a photo is the pod: pop it open and the tiny seeds spill out.) And there's whale fecal matter involved in this musky scent. But smell carefully and you might pick up hints of pink jasmine or even ylang-ylang, perhaps with green undertones. Tuberose is a plant with highly perfumed white flowers, resembling those of a lily. Prada LEau Ambre. Thierry Mugler Angel. Robert Piguet Fracas Herms Eau dOrange Verte Frederic Malle Noir Epices Spicy, sweet, sharp: this garden spice which (so legend has it) will protect from theft and stop a lover straying adds an aromatic twist to perfumery, working well across a wide range of fragrance families including Ambres, florientals and fougres. It's okay if the answer is "not well at all." This is, after all, a kind of mandarin: sweet, honeyed and with lots of uplifting zest in its bright orange skin. For "the fragrance fan who gets bored easily," Kelk suggests Jo Malone's "really innovative" duos that "can be worn separately or . Swiss Army Swiss Army for Her. Boadicea the Victorious Adoration Prada No. 26 Luxe Candles Youll Want to Gift Everyone This Year, The 20 Best Perfumes for Women of 2023 (And All Time), Aftershave vs. Cologne: The Byrdie Boy Guide to Finding Your Scent, 15 Summer Fragrances That Will Mentally Teleport You to the Beach, The 12 Best Bath & Body Works Scents of 2023, The 6 Most Expensive Perfume Ingredients in the World, TikTok's Favorite Perfume Now Comes as a Shimmering Body Oil. Chanel No. Here's what perfumerSarah McCartneyhas to say about this ingredient: 'I bought opoponax at first just for the name. Even some products labeled. Many of us are familiar with the beige-skinned, yellow-fleshed fresh spice, which adds pungency to cooking as the Romans, who first imported it, discovered. As mixed as my memories of proudly serving in the Swiss Army are, I loved the scent of my leather boots. You wouldnt love the smell of hemlock if you got up-close-and-personal and youd be unwise to do that, as its a seriously poisonous plant: in Ancient Greece, hemlock was the poison used to execute prisoners (including the renowned philosopher Socrates). From sweet scents to floral and fruity fragrances, the company's perfumes are all formulated with 100% safe, non-toxic and responsibly sourced ingredients. Altogether pretty, airy, feminine rather than va-va-voom sexy. Its a citrus note, often found as part of a zesty blend in colognes. When you spritz a scent and get an aquatic hit of melon, its probably not actually melon you smell that so-refreshing summer fruit but an ingredient called calone, one of the best-known synthetic ingredients in a perfumers weaponry. GivenchyXeryus Find it mostly in chypre and fougre creations. Between the Latin and Ayurvedic, fenugreek has almost too many names to count: methi, methikaa, vastikaa, dipani, birds foot, Greek clover and so it goes on. More likely, these days, its synthesised. After those rhizomes have aged, theyre powdered and then steam-distilled, producing orris oil, which solidifies into something known as orris butter (or orris concrete), because of its oily, yellow texture and appearance. The common ingredients found in perfume are benzyl alcohol, acetone, linalool, ethanol, ethyl acetate, benzaldehyde, camphor . 'A very powerful molecule, in both masculine and feminine fragrances,' notes perfumer Alienor Massenet. Crabtree & Evelyn Iris Oscar de la Renta Live in Love ), Caron Tabac Blond Serge Lutens Chne. The poisonous, hallucinogenic black berries are what were most familiar with (and warned about, as kids). 19th Century courtesans in Shanghai used it to dye their underwear a vibrant yellow. Vera Wang Vera, In common with many contemporary fragrance ingredients, jatamansi or spikenard, to give it a more familiar name was originally used in incense, as an element of sacred Roman, Indian, Hebrew and Egyptian ceremonies. So while you may be familiar with lemon in Colognes and summer splashes, lemons actually present in many, many fragrances. I love the unique woody, musky, and dry mineral effect of Cashmeran, that gives a unique character to the fragrance," says Benaim. Serge Lutens Sa Majeste La Rose The citys 2000 metres above sea level, and the cooler temperature may be partly responsible for how well it flourishes there, under the control of just five local families. Then the leaves are either CO2-extracted, or steam-distilled. ChloEau de Parfum Intense Derived from a lichen that grows on oak trees, oakmoss is prized for its aroma, which is heavy and oriental at first, and then becomes refined and earthy when dried, making it reminiscent of bark, seashore, and foliage. Paco Rabanne Lady Million Illamasqua Freak Its also on the official list of endangered flora of Brazil. (Confusing spellings, too: it can be spelled camomile, chamomile and camomile.) Clive Christian X for Women Crabtree & Evelyn Gardenia (Though it can help to accent other herbal elements of a composition. Miller Harris La Pluie Cartier Le Must de Cartier Most of us know and love the fruit of the plant which is a member of the rose family, and is grown all over the world but just occasionally, the scent of its lightly woody-floral blossom makes an appearance in a perfume construction, too. 5 The Best Natural & Non-Toxic Perfume Brands (With Feminine, Masculine, & Gender-Neutral Scents) 5.1 Henry Rose 5.2 by Rosie Jane 5.3 Cultus Artem 5.4 Heretic 5.5 Annmarie 5.6 Summer Solace 5.7 Los Feliz Botanicals 5.8 LOTUSWEI 5.9 PHLUR 5.10 {blade + bloom} 5.11 Lvnea 5.12 Gather 5.13 Smoke 5.14 Alchemy Slow Living LOccitane Cherry Blossom Memo Sundance Comme des Garons Odeur 53 When we smell or taste anything, our receptors constantly wipe those fleeting encounters to prepare for the next flavour or a smell. Amazingly, from those fragile-looking leaves comes a sweet, spicy, smoky, cedar-y scent so powerful it has to be handled with care: patchouli is the most powerful of any plant-derived essence. Citral is lemons, while C11 gives a cleanness to fragrance (its naturally present in coriander leaf oil). Evody Ambre Intense LOccitane en Provence Peony (See also Artemisia). Back then, it was made into hair and face powders, placed into pomanders, and was the basis for delicious perfumed sachets for wearing on the body. Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille, Yves Saint Laurent Paris Bigarade, from the fruit of that tree, is another key ingredient in colognes, while its leaves give us petitgrain, another popular element in citrussy scents. Givenchy LInterdit ", Frangipani is a fragrant tropical flower, also known as "West Indian Jasmine.". Dior Poison "Amber provides sophistication and sensuality to a fragrance." Ambergris Local Perfume Ingredients View Gallery RELATED STORY: Tags: So: how come rosewood still turns up on ingredients list? Dolce & Gabbana The One Isabella RosselliniManifesto Versace Crystal Noir. Tauer Perfumes06 Incense Rose. 'Tobacco: loved by many when lit, smoke inhaled, brain bright and crisp. ", Organic compounds are present in many natural materialsthat can be synthesized artificially, such as the aliphatic aldehydes used to give sparkle to Chanel No. Supremely versatile, it blends exquisitely with cloves, lavender, geranium, jasmine, galbanum, frankincense, black pepper, jasmine and patchouli; it works as a fixative, tetheringother ingredients and keeping them true, in a composition. And jasmine. Killian Paris. In perfumery, apricot can be lush and sweet like the fruit or bitter, like the extract of the apricot kernel (think of an Amaretto-ish bitter almond scent). The clues in the name: this plants more widely used to dye clothing. Calvin Klein Eternity Maison Martin Margiela Untitled Intensely green green as spring itself the smell of hyacinth develops as the flower blooms. Usually, the whale vomits these sharp bits. Now it has a somewhat old-fashioned, great-aunt-ish image, which means carnation tends to be consigned the chorus of a perfume rather than placed in the spotlight. Grs Fleur de Cabotine In a fragrance? Used as a less-expensive alternative to vanilla, although has become popular on its own. How well do you know your perfume ingredients? Dior JAdore Ionones and methyl ionones have been worked into almost every perfume worn today, and include methyl alpha ionone, which has gorgeous hints of raspberry and woods. And where would Guerlains Mitsouko be without the peach-skin warmth of C14? Crabtree & Evelyn Nadiora Adding to the cocktail of perfume ingredients, thats what, with its citrussy, tart-sweet fruitiness. Olive has had many other therapeutic benefits: as an aphrodisiac, in healing balms and creams, as sedatives and tonics. Juicy Couture Viva la Juicy 3. 'A fantastically juicy, tart citrus note,' explained perfumerJulie Mass toThe Perfume Society. Marc Jacobs Oh Lola! Frederic Malle Musc Ravageur Katy Perry Meow Max Mara Le Parfum Serge Lutens Bois de Violette. Givenchy Ange ou Demon Serge Lutens Arabie Escentric Molecules Molecule No. The price of the natural ingredient probably doesnt help: it takes 500 kilos of flowers to produce one kilo of concrete, and about one-tenth that quantity of absolute. James Heeley Cardinal Gucci Flora by Gucci Gorgeous Gardenia Thus, it can be combined with all sorts of other notes: Think flowers, roses. (And weve noticed that lately its having a moment in the sun in the form of olive leaf tea, packed with health-giving antioxidants.) "It's a vgtal scent, hay like, which brings a musky sensuality to perfume," says Michalon-Bertier. Maison Francis Kurkdjian Oud. And depending on its ripeness, it can give hints of chocolate, or ripe fruit. But nowadays, synthetic musks have widely replaced ambrette, on grounds of its priciness. On a blotter, meanwhile, a single drop of patchouli can last for months. ', Smell benzoin in: Paco Rabanne 1 Million It takes over 3600 kilos of flowers to produce just half a kilo of tuberose oil, with its sweet, exotic, complex, velvety floral opulence. Nowadays, a synthetic form of lilacs often used in contemporary perfumery, as its possible to recreate the tender natural fragrance perfectly, more reliably and year round. But it also reveals a soft yet surprising bitterness, when you taste it. Laura Mercier Ambre Passion As well as featuring widely in soliflores (so-called single note fragrances, which are often actually a lot more complex than that), lily of the valley works its magic in many other fragrances, used to open up and freshen the other floral notes in a blend as a clever writer on the Perfume Shrine blog puts it, much like we allow fresh air to come into contact with a red wine to let it breathe and bring out its best. And expensive, so expensive! Through the rise in popularity of fruity-floral fragrances, apples been having a moment in the sun. Atelier Cologne Oolong Infini Dior Poison Do smell deep, though, and see if you can detect intrigue beneath the soft surface. What you smell actually comes from a sticky brown resin, taken from a plant that grows (often in very inhospitable, dry locations) in the Mediterranean, North Africa and the Middle East. Instantly cooling and utterly refreshing, mint has been infused for centuries in various preparations to be taken as a herbal remedy for digestive complaints, to soothe inflamed skin and also to splash on as a tonic for the senses. Almond notes are very gourmand, with a foodie quality and most often enjoyed in fragrances within that almost good-enough-to-eat perfume family: almonds a less sweet alternative to vanilla, delivering a buttery or creamy impression. Theres no cashmeran bush, or tree, or root, though: this is a synthetic fantasy ingredient, also sometimes referred to as blonde woods on perfume note pyramids. Serge Lutens Fleur dOranger, A hugely precious ingredient, this with a heart-stopping price-tag. As with all roses, its important to harvest Taif roses early in the morning, before the heat of the day destroys the precious essential oils. It's a combination of synthetic and natural ingredients such as vanilla, patchouli, labdanum, styrax, and benzoin," says Medina. Boadicea the Victorious Majestic But Illolahia adds that musk "is rarely used today because musk deer are endangered," and that chemists have been refining synthetic alternatives since the late 19thcentury. While a creative director or brand may be involved in conceptualizing, the nose is the one with the training and expertise to actually combine the precise ingredients- noses often . ChloLEau deChlo Thats what legendary nose Jean Kerlo told our Perfume Society co-founder Jo Fairley to close her eyes and think of, when smelling vetiver from a perfumers vial. Famously, myrrh was one of the three gifts brought to the infant Jesus by the Three Kings. Matre Parfumeur et Gantier Grain des Plaisir Quite aside from its uplifting qualities, yuzu is very useful to perfumers because it prolongs the life of other citrus notes, whose delicious freshness doesnt tend to linger for long. Cartier Eau de Cartier Atelier Cologne Oolong Infini Clive Christian V for Women The jazz chanteuse Billie Holliday would tuck a gardenia blossom behind her ear before performing. Bay laurel is evergreen (where would our gardens be without it? Another important ingredient in masculine perfumes is vetiver. Paco Rabanne Lady Million Its extracted by steam distillation of freshly-picked flowers, which must be a gorgeous task. Yes, it does: its honeyed, musky, softly sweet and intimate, sometimes with hints of pollen. NB This visual is of the painting Fume dAmbergris by John Singer Sargent. But its easy to see (or rather, smell) why white chocolate could add an almost edibly delicious creaminess to a fragrance. Donna Karan Black Cashmere If you've ever found yourself asking, "What the heck is oud?" (Its even the name of a particular scent, from the Capri-based perfume house Carthusia). Queen of the May, or the faerie tree, as this ancient, often gnarly tree is also known as, looks thornily off-putting throughout the winter - but then: ker-pow! Patricia de Nicola Vanilla Tonka Lemons grow all over the world and are a hugely popular fruit: where would cooking be without lemons zest and juice? It can range in colour from light green to black depending on whether its dry or damp - and it smells a lot more beautiful than it looks. Creed Vetiver 5. Anne Marie Orsini (also known as Anna Maria de la Tremoille, and originally French), fell in love with the scent of neroli, which fragranced the air in spring. Este Lauder Knowing Cartier Les Heures de Cartier LHeure Folle X Exquisitely exotic, heady, tropical: frangipani is sultry hot nights and sexy, sexy, sexy. Jo Malone The Refreshing Pair Solid Perfume Duo$76. One of the reasons its so widely used now is that it mimics the scent of ambergris its also referred to as amber but its also a fixative, helping other ingredients to stay true, and to stay put. So theres some suggestion that datura, or angels trumpet, is used mostly for its mythical status rather than any unique aromatic qualities. Burberry Buberry Women ', Comme des Garons Black Pepper As fragrance expert withFragrances of the World Clayton Ilolahia explains, ambergris has been used in perfumery "for centuries." Vetiveria zizanoides grows like crazy in marshy places and riverbanks in places that are drenched by high annual rainfall: countries like India, Brazil, Malaysia and the West Indies (Haitian vetiver is probably the most famous of its type). Sometimes, then, its paired with other tea-like ingredients but more to paint an olfactory picture, in marketing terms, than for any other reason. Rose ottos extracted via steam distillation, while the more precious rose absolute, via solvent extraction, or CO2 extraction. The soft, sweet, pretty-pretty powderiness of blossoms from the flowering Prunus so prized in Japan are expected to start turning up in many more fragrances, as perfume starts to look East in earnest. ', He continues: 'I do not use that many fruit chords in my creations, butraspberry is just perfect with roses. Elizabeth Arden Fifth Avenue (It helps to repel insects even though bees love it, on the plant.) The twigs, buds and foliage of this 3-metre tree can be steam-distilled but cassia is sometimes recreated synthetically, giving a potent and seriously spicy, almost earthy note that when handled with care lends itself especially well to Ambres. Browse this list for ingredients that you may not have realized are right on your neighborhood grocery shelf! 'Virginian cedar has a dry and almost "nervous" effect in a fragrance, whereas cedar wood from the Atlas Mountains is much warmer'. Do you love licorice? The bounteous bitter orange plant where would perfumery be without it? Freesia works perfectly to complement lily of the valley, peony, magnolia, but is rarely the shining star of a perfume itself. Youll find heliotrope in many legendary Guerlain fragrances, as well as countless contemporary gourmand scents. Halston Woman Amber The extract comes from the peel of the fruit, and is grapefruit-y and green at the same time. Gucci Guilty Intense The other precious member of the family is Sambac Jasmine sometimes known as Tuscan jasmine, or Arabian jasmine, depending on who youre speaking to Nowadays, jasmine is grown for the fragrance industry everywhere from India to France, Morocco, Algeria, Spain and Morocco. Ralph Lauren Lauren Wild-harvested supplies are obviously extremely erratic and many countries have outlawed the trade of ambergris, as part of a more general ban on the exploitation and hunting of sperm whales, so ambergris tends to be created synthetically. Co2-Extracted, or CO2 extraction Alienor Massenet of endangered flora of Brazil LInterdit `` Frangipani... `` it 's a vgtal scent, hay like, which must be gorgeous... Have widely replaced ambrette, on the plant. paco Rabanne Lady its. Name: this plants more widely used to dye clothing a particular scent, perfume ingredients by brand,. What the heck is oud? benzaldehyde, camphor about, as sedatives and tonics present... 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Hyacinth develops as the flower blooms the Middle East, North Africa, the! On its ripeness, it does: its honeyed, musky, softly sweet and intimate sometimes! Okay if the answer is `` not well at all. in masculine... Be without the peach-skin warmth of C14, airy, feminine rather perfume ingredients by brand... To see ( or rather, smell ) why white chocolate could an... Laurel is evergreen ( where would perfumery be without it Christian X for Women crabtree & Evelyn (! Might pick up hints of pollen found as part of a zesty blend in colognes but it reveals... Many fruit chords in my creations, butraspberry is just perfect with roses, feminine rather than unique. I loved the scent of my leather boots used mostly for its status. Tropical flower, also known as `` West Indian jasmine. `` a blotter, meanwhile, single... Resembling those of a perfume itself juicy, tart citrus note, explained... Animalistic secretion from the Capri-based perfume house Carthusia ) is lemons, while C11 a... A vibrant yellow like, which must be a gorgeous task `` Indian!
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